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Monday, November 26, 2007

Can't win them all as I didn’t have a great past couple of days!

Let’s see where should I start? I left Naivasha around 9 am to go to Nakuru to see the Lake and rhinos and pink flamingos. It was suppose to be a 3 hr trip but allowing for African time we didn’t get there until about 4 pm. The tout (hustler who gets passengers on the mini bus) showed me a matatu with few passengers. So I got on and thought we’d be at our destination around noon. Well they didn’t tell me that the matatu was planning to stop at a political demonstration for one of the candidates. So here I am waiting inside the bus while everyone else is out listening to the candidates. I couldn’t find the driver so I had no choice as I paid 200 KS ($3) for the trip. Finally the driver comes back to say u can catch another matatu as we are going to wait until the end of the speeches. So I hopped on board another matatu to take me the rest of the way to Nakuru. The trip was on the usage Kenyan highways (pot ways) as I got my body banged around mixed with a blend of African dust.
I wanted to go to Nakuru to see the lake and nature reserve. However I didn’t want to take another long tour with a bunch of photography fiends like at Maasai Mara. I only wanted to see the pink flamingos and white and black rhinos. The price with park entrance is normally around $90 which is steep for a 1 day trip as far as I was concerned.

So using my usually diplomacy stating that it was later in the day I managed to score a tour (can’t walk around the park as too dangerous or I would have done it) for about $40. I thought that still expensive but factoring in the park entrance and just limiting my time with the tour it went OK. What didn’t go so great was that the battery in my camera had to need charging and also my backup one too! $*^&@#%# but I got to see them for cheap and my pictures usually aren’t all that great so not earth shaking. So rather than camp in the park I decided to find a cheap place in town to charge my battery! Yeah I sure found a cheap hotel but it had electricity but no water but 1 out of 2 isn’t bad!

I realized that I needed to get back to Kisumu (the town by the village I volunteered) to pick up some thing I left behind there. So I caught a bigger bus as I knew the road was bumpy and dusty (but I guess they all are but just are worse than others) and I wanted a break from being beat up and sitting in a dust storm. Well I went to catch the 8 am bus as this was suppose to be a 4 hr trip. So like a normal muzungu I got there at 7:30 to pick a decent seat (last bus I caught had a metal rod sticking out in the seat) But factoring in African time the bus didn’t leave till 9:30. This bus didn’t have curtains to block the sun but what did I expect for a ½ price bus? At least I picked the passenger side of the bus so I didn’t get as much dust. I’d rather have sun than dust but no one escapes the shake rattle and roll of the road. It was funny as half way through the trip all the passengers were demanding a pee break or whatever else they could do in 5 mins. So the driver simply pulls over to the side of the road and all the passengers get out. It reminded of some of the ski bus trips I’ve been on where the bus pulls over to the side and everyone stands next to the bus and the bus pulls ahead leaving all the people waving to passer bys. Well in this trip the driver didn’t pull ahead but was pulling out when a couple of women came flying out of bush with their young kids in hand and whatever else they had with them. It was a bit funny actually as the conductor didn’t even count heads to see if everyone was on board. They usually just rap on the metal roof a couple times and the driver pulls out!

Another first but long overdue was a blow out a half hr later! I don’t know how the driver knew it was a flat tire and not just another pothole! There was a loud bang but it didn’t sound any different than the 1,000 other potholes we hit on the road. The odd thing is most of the passengers didn’t get off the bus when they changed the flat! I don’t know how they did it as they seem to take the inside tire from one side to replace on the other side. So after a 45 min delay we got on the way. However I was sort of concerned we’d have another blow out as the driver didn’t slow down as he kept swerving to miss potholes and oncoming vehicles but still got his share of monster ones. But we managed to get to Kisumu around 3:30 a 3 hr trip stretched into 6 hrs.

I had the bus drop me off at the local YMCA (as we entered town) where I stayed before and still had the key. So of course I got the same room but unfortunately with no water that night! So I strolled down to the nearby Mega City shopping plaza for a bite to eat. Ran into a friend there who was about to watch an English football match between Arsenal and Wigman at the pub! So I decided to have a Tusker (Kenyan national beer) and watch the match too! The funny thing was my friend was a Kenyan female which makes it unusual to see yelling and screaming with a Canadian who had never watched one before! The first time I had ever watched an entire football match and I must say it was enjoyable! I could really get into the game if I watched more games. Might have been the ½ dozen beers I had that made it enjoyable.
My friend said she only drank white wine but she was pouring Coke in it which was an odd combination. I found out later the waiter was mistakenly serving her sambuko sp? (whiskey). But we managed to see the game!

Then the next day at the YMCA I managed to wash some clothes even if we had no water for showers! I then met up with another friend who was leaving Kisumu for business.
I find out that a few Kenyans befriend Muzungu’s for gifts, meals or something else that’s they can get for free. Well when I think that’s happening I get pretty hostile. Like I will gladly buy a Kenyan friend a meal, drink or whatever as long as they don’t ask or take advantage of me or my body (just kidding as I don’t need that life time mistake happen to me here).


So now about my other problems which happened once I left Kisumu for to this town called Eton sp?? I wanted to go see the place and see the world class Kenyan runners training base. I met 2 Dutch girls who stayed there overnight and practiced there. I don’t know if I was going to practice with them as I left my running shoes in a bag in Nairobi so it was hard to practice in hiking shoes or flip flops. But I like to do a little running so I wanted to see how they ran as it seems either a Kenyan or Ethiopian runner always wins any marathon or Olympic race they enter! The thing is Eton is fairly high up so that adds to the mystic of their training. I planned to stay at Eldoret a bigger town.

But when I got to Eldoret I notice that I lost about 3000 shillings ($50) and this nice change holder (I became very attached to it so that was the big loss for me) that Raphil (Jolene's friend gave me). So I had to hit the ATM machine (seem to be doing that a few times lately as hitting the tourist spots in Kenya is not cheap). Then more bad luck as my glass frame broke and the lens fell to the ground. Great no glasses! But I checked around for an Optic shop as they’re called. I found one that could kind of solder my frame together for 150 shillings ($3) but I had to wait for 2 hrs as the technical was out of the shop for a while. Heck back home they’d say can’t fix it but we can sell you a new Italian frame for $300 and of course you’ll need to have a new pair of lens made to fit them. So come back in a week and it’ll be ready. Hell I was just happy to get it fixed in 2 hrs as I’m as blind as a bat! I’m getting eye surgery when I get back home so hopefully I won’t need glasses (hope, hope).

Unfortunately I won’t be able to get to the training facility today. Tomorrow I have to go to this town to say goodbye to another Kenyan friend. Then I’m catching the night bus (cheaper and save on a hotel room but lose out on sleep) back to Nairobbery. Then off to the coast to see some beaches, etc.

Hey also check my previous blog where I get pissed about the treatment of some of the KASOW Youths.

So hang in there and catch my blogs from the beaches of Kenya and also Zanzibar, Tanzania. Catch u later!

When I hear how some of the Youths are being treated I get really worked up!

When I was leaving Kisumu in the morning ran into a member of the KASOW youth group. He was telling me something that bothered me and wished they had told me before and I could have tried to help them. He said Boaz (John's brother) who has been a real dictator here had taken the 5 or 6 bikes that the GSI students (from UBC) left for the youth groups youth until they return. He showed me the documents the GSI students wrote and signed giving them the use of the bikes. Plus a letter to the Youths for the use of their laptop. I wished they had showed it to me before and I would have raised hell with KASOW that they couldn't take the bikes or the laptop as it was given to the Youth Group! I asked them why they didn't show us the documents before and he said they were scared of Boaz. I had my differences with Boaz but we kind of coexisted. It's probably not my concern anymore except I care for the people and youth group of Kenyawegi so I have to try and help them. So I'm going to send an email to John (in Canada) to let him know (if he doesn't know or maybe he won't scold his older brother)that Boaz is becoming a bit of a dictator. Also their sister Helen is starting to have a bit of a power trip too! They've told the KASOW Youth Group that KASOW is a family organization or something like that! Well I don't care but when I hear how the Youth and others are treated I have to help by telling people in GSI, the ones I volunteered with and KASOW Committee! All the volunteers who come here to help the Widows and orphans need to know the problems! KASOW only exists because like volunteers from UBC or the 8 of us who came for this session do fund raising and care! Yes John pulls it all together and does all the work and worry. However he has to get Boaz out of KASOW as he's a real trouble maker! I've heard that the volunteers in house have told Boaz they don't want him in the house. Great to hear! I thought coming over with this small Grass roots organization that things would be less political and run smoothly but can't escape politics! If I come to volunteer in Kenya again I'll come here and just stay with the villagers and work directly with them, the heck with the organizations. They all have their own agendas!

Like I said I should just forget it as it's not really my concern but I like those kids and people so it makes me mad! So what do I do when something gets me pissed! I let people know but this time I will be more diplomatic as I respect John but too bad I can't say the same for his brother Boaz lately!

Thursday, November 22, 2007

Taking to the road and seeing the sights and beauty that makes Kenya such a world destination!

Well I finally got my act together and took the cheap but bumpy bus ride to Nairobbery! I've ridden a bus on that road a few months back so I knew I should expect bump and dust and I wasn't diappointed! It's unfortunate that I had to go to back to Nairobbery to hook up with a tour to Maasai Mara. But it was the cheapest alternative I could find given that I got a partial refund from the KASOW group. Then I couldn't get on with the Overland truck group due to health insurance issues. But all in all I usually end up getting shafted when I open my big mouth but will I ever learn? I was hoping to get killed at 95 by a jealous husband but will probably get beaten up by a irate husband or wife before that time! But I guess here for a good time not a long time!

So I caught up on a tour with 7 others from various countries. It was a long and even dustier and bumpier ride to Maasai Mara. This was probably because the vechile was smaller and the driver (who was very nice and helpful) had to live up to the reputation of being a good but wild Kenyan driver! He missed most of the potholes on the road and luckily all of the vehicles coming in the opposite direction while swerving potholes! We did have a problem with an overheated radiator and had to donate all our drinking water to keep us going. These vans are 2 wheel drive mini vans and I have to say toyota make tough vehicles. Jackson drove the heck out of that van through bushes, mud, water, hills and we only got stuck in the mud once so that we had to get our and push. Luckily there weren't any wild animals like lions in the area at the time.

Yeah we saw all the wild animals (lions, elephants, garifes, ostriches, zebras, hippos, wildebeasts, elands and so many more) and quite enjoyed the experience. I took a few pictures but no where near the number some people took. I don't thinks some actually saw any animals except through their viewfinder. I knew I could never do the scenes of these animals justice with my pictures. So I spent a lot of my time just watching the animals and will check out National Geographics or my nephew Randy's quality pictures to see their true beauty of the animals! Our mini van had a pop up top for 360 viewing but with 7 in the party (as 1 Aussie left early) so it made it hard to all stand at once. So I said the heck with the jossling, I'll just sit in the passenger seat and view from there.

At times we sat in once spot while some people took up to I'd say 50 pictures of one
animal. Which led me to comment, "how many pictures does a person need of a sleeping lion?" Anyway I've bin dar, dun th\at and it's time to move on to some other sights of Kenya.

It's pretty hard to see Maasai Mara without going through a tour company of some type. But most try to rip a person off by nickeling and diming you to death. We had to use sleeping bags even if we didn't want to rent one. I know we were sleeping in tents but I didn't think it'd be that cold. It was cool but I never used the sleeping bag as we had sheets and blankets. So I paid 750 shillings ($10) and never used the sleeping bag as it's probably been used a 100 times without cleaning!

I bought a colorful blanket from the Maasai which you probably seen them wearing in any picture of Kenya. This Israel girl wondered why I wanted to have one. Well it's

I had Jackson, the tour driver, drop me off in Naivashu as I was kind of heading west rather than take me back to Nairobbery. So I hopped a matatu (local mini bus) there and went to the Fisherman's Campo on Lake Naivashu. This camp site is nice and open on Lake Naivashu. There are monkeys all over the place so I had to keep my tent zipped all the time. There are also hippos in the lake. They stay in the water during the day. But at night they come on the ground and are very dangerous as a woman who was drunk got bitten and died from one. They have a electric fence around the water and tell people not to cross that to see them. However some people get drunk and still jump the fence for a closer look at night. I've seen how big they are and I don't ever get that drunk.

The Maasai blanket has come in handy as I'm sleeping in a small tent with no sleeping bag (of course). It's funny Kenya is on the equator but it;s fairly high in a lot of places so it's cool at night and hot during the day. I manage in my tent but barely. It's a good thing there's a resturant/ bar in the campground so I can warm myself with a few beers before hitting the sack. Actually it's a good place to meet other travellers and talk. I've met a fellow Canadian from Edmonton in the next tent who is doing research for his PHD. He's been in Kenya living with a Maasai family in the hills since March and will be here until June 2008. I give him credit as he's even learned Kiswahilli and the Maasai language. A lot better than I'd be able to do in that time.

I met a Canadian soldier on leave from Afganistan who was here on a short Overland truck trip. It was nice to talk to him as my son Darren has and will probably be going there again soon. It was nice to hear his story and good to see he could come to Kenya to meet his girlfriend and go on a safari.

Yesterday I hired a mountain bike and biked about 15 km to Hell's Gate. This is a nature reserve which allows people to bike or walk freely without a guide. Just up my alley! So I took my time (mostly to protect my butt as I mountain bike always with a sore butt) and got to the gorge. This is a beautiful sight that has been carved over a million years. I had to hire a guide because they have flash floods of up to 3 meter (10 ft) so a person has to know the signs or they could get caught in one. Plus a person can get lost in the gorge by taking the wrong path.
That was enjoyable along with the wild life that I saw in the park while biking - zebras, ostriches, gazelles, warthogs, monkeys, baboons, etc.

Now I'm hanging out at the camp until Fri when I grab a matatu to go to Nakuru to check out the game reserve and it's thousand of pink flamingos and rhinos.

Check my other posting today and although my pics don't do the animals justice I'll try and post some pictures of Maasai Mara soon.

I'll check back in a few days once I get to another internet site. So Later!

Thursday, November 15, 2007

This may destroy my reputation of being a Jerk and Assh-l- that I've unceremoniously built up over the years but........

While I've been in I've tried in my small way tried to assist a few people who have helped and inspired me here. These are Kenyans I met and found them to be genuinely helpful, kind and consider them friends. This is a step forward for me as I don't make friends easily.

I became a bit of a softy so when I left the village I gave most of my stuff to certain individuals plus some money they can buy themselves something. They were so grateful and thanked me so much that even a tight guy me was happy that I did it. I know I've mentioned that I don't believe in giving the villagers gifts but mostly to teach them to be self sustaining. However these gifts were to personal friends that I made and wanted to help. Since I was leaving and couldn't help them any more I felt a need to leave them a gift. I know they didn't expect or that it would ruin them and have them expect such gifts in the future from volunteers. They aren't those kind of people which is why I wanted to help them in this way.

I've been told that a person comes to Kenya and Africa in general and it changes them like no other place! Well I think I believe this statement as it has affected me and I've come to love it here in Africa. There is a lot of beauty in Kenya in the wildlife, countryside and the people.

I don't known if I'll be able to come here again but I hope to return in a couple years - enhallah. However it may not necessary be to only volunteer as I don't want to set back any volunteer project a couple of years or destroy the good work done by others.

I met with Mike (the treasure of the KASOW Committee who let me go from my volunteering work) and I think we came to an understanding about my email. I apologized once more as it was not in the best taste as I can be quite outspoken. But I told him to understand that my only thoughts were to help the community in any way I could. I came to really love the people and am sorry that I can't stay longer. Mike understood what I said are valid points but maybe not in the manner I said them. So regardless I hold no amimosity to anyone and feel I did bring a different perspective and help to the villagers.

I am also a little disappointed in the way the committee deals with some of the Kenyan helpers who have become our friends. However I won't get into details as it's too involved but anyone working there will know what I mean. I don't want to cause more trouble within the house or KASOW but I am really disappointed in the way some issues are handled.

The people in the village became from friends which I don't make easily. But these people are so warm and friendly that even an old goat like me warms up to them.

This may ruin my bad guy image but I wanted to help them on a personal level.
But so not to completely ruin my image I can also still be a tactless idiot.
I was on a tour of Maasai Mara with a group of people in a mini van. The trip went good but there was this one Canadian lawyer from Toronto (need I say more) who grated on me! Maybe he didn't realize what his comments meant but he didn't fit in with the other budget travellers on the tour. I'm still surprised he didn't fly to Maasia Mara and hire a personal guide and vechile. He represented everything that I dislike about lawyers and people with an need to create an image! We stayed in tents and of course he had a special luxury tent! He'd describe his shower as rudimentary and asked if our showers had hot water! Well we only had communal showers which we were happy to get at all!

Then he had to talk about his law business and building billable hours so he could take this trip. Of course no one was interested in hearing or cared about shop talk when you're in Africa. He drove a Ford Explorer SUV in downtown Toronto. If you know Toronto he lives on Bloor and St Clair and pays $1800 a month for a 1 bedroom apartment. Of course he works on Bay Street the Canadian equivalent to Wall St! He stepped over the boundary for me when he mentioned he was planning to buy a Hummer! So I had to comment as I hate gas gussling SUV and what they do to the environment! I asked him why he needed a SUV let alone a hummer in Toronto. He said all his friends drove them. I was hoping in Africa that I got away from image conscience people who drive SUV's.

He took a 2 hr hike to the first hut on Mt. Killamanjaro and paid his guide a $30 tip. This got all of us to comment. Do you realize that is more than most of those people make in a week or 2. This will cause more of the people to hang around the gates wanting to guide people. They have enough trouble with unqualified kids portering who want the big tips. A couple 15 year old have died carrying large weights then tripping and falling to their deaths. I told him if a tourist on a 2 week vacation doesn't barter here it sets the bar on a product or service to that price from that point on. I've really noticed that prices and tips are very costly in Kenya and Tanzania for trips to the Nature and Game Reserves. I didn't realize that it would be so expensive to see the sights! But some people's comments are well it's cheaper than back home. Well they aren't back home as you give tips relative to where you get the service or product. A tip of $30 for 3 hrs of service here is way out of line just as a 30 cent tip for service would be back home.
He never actually bartered as he bought a Maasai spear for 5000 shillings ($80) when our guide said he should have only paid 1000 shillings.

Well not to disappoint the people that know me I had to tactfully tell him what I thought. It seems the more Muzungu (white) tourists I meet the more I like the Africans and want to help them.

So like that old song I'm "On the Road again" once I straighten out the latest curve in the road!!

Well I made it back from Uganda OK surviving that pothole highway! On the way back I didn't want to catch a mutatu (mini van that's overcrowded and stops every mile to pick up or drop off people) on that road! So I asked if there were any coaches going to Kenya. So this boda boda driver takes me out to the main highway that goes from Kampala to the Kenyan border and drops me off there! Heck I didn't know if a bus was coming or when. But luckily there was a truck there loading bags of maize/corn and what ever so they offered to drive me to the Kenyan border. So I negotiated a price which they didn't like but that was all the Ugandan shillings I had left so I just climbed aboard. It was odd because they kept getting jerked around and had to pay more for the petrol because a muzungo was on board. When they see one of us they immediately think the person you're with is rich so the price goes up. Surprising that anyone would want us around! This ride was almost as bad as the riding a mutatu but I made it to the border. Then the sky opened up and I had to cross the border in the rain. So I grabbed the first vehicle going east to Kisumu where I was going and guess what another overcrowded and steamy mutatu! Got back home in the dark after being on the road for 8 hrs. Glad to see that my stuff was still in the house! But actually the KASOW committee has been very good so no complaints. I met with one of the committee members to get a rebate of my Masa Mara trip and we talked and I apologized for my lack of diplomacy. He thought that my points were good but like most people who know me think - I should maybe re-phrase my wording but oh well my life is never without roadblocks! A friend laughing emailed to say "I can't believe u got fired from a non paying volunteering job". Yeah I guess it could only happen to me but the KASOW Committee and I kissed and made up. But I packed my stuff and moved out of the house as I probably could have stayed for a day or so but felt it's better for all if I got out asap! I definitely felt bad about leaving.

I made some real good friends among the villagers. I liked the youths that I help set up a Computer Club in the Secondary School. There's a real nice intelligent girl Edwina who is helping running it. Then there's Patrick who means well but is not too organized. I had to lay down the law with them but both are really nice kids and I will miss working with them but will keep in touch. The youths here are anxious to learn but don't have as much opportunity as kids back home. If I were staying I'd want to help develop the Computer club a little more but what happened happened! At least youths are flexible and understand when an idiot adult like me has verbally diaherra! Also made great friends with this teacher and her husband who is a retired economics instructor at a college. He is now enjoying farming so I learned a lot from them. Met a couple of young mothers with kids and visited their homes to see a family with kids which is a challenge!
But probably the people I'll miss the most are the 4 people that have helped us around our house. Millie my best friend and cook, Ben who did everything for us, Parmella who cleaned for us and John's aunt is really nice. Then there is Maurice who was our interpretor, took us around and even stuck to Muzungu (white man)time for meetings, etc. I built a real closeness with them and will stay in touch with them. I didn't think of them as people who cooked, cleaned or did things for us - but they were friends. I felt I could be myself and joke around with them where as some people don't appreciate my humor or the crazy stuff I do. But Kenyans have a good sense of humor and are always smiling - not that I'm always smiling!

So I left yesterday to hook up with this Uganda to South Africa Overland Truck group that I met in Uganda. They were coming through my town Kisumu and said I could go with them on the camping truck (they're headed for South Africa but too pricey for me) to Masa Mara (the biggest game reserve in Kenya and stretches into Tanzania but is called Serengeti there). I didn't have the guides' phone number but he had mine but he couldn't call me for some reason! But I was in this supermarket getting some stuff that this young Kenyan girl needed so I was helping her get them. So I luckily happened to run into the Overland group in the supermarket! They said they were loading up with groceries and heading out in 30 mins. So I went and got my pack and stuff and made it back on time!
Unfortunately the Overland Truck group has strict health insurance rules. I showed them my Blue Cross card (compilments of my loving wife who I'm kind of separated from but who I still seem to rely on as she considers me one of her kids probably why we're separated) but he needed an expiry date for the insurance. I told him this is a company health insurance so there is no expiry date unless you leave the company. I guess the people on the truck group buy health insurance specifically for the trip. Heck probably most of the travellers and volunteers don't put too much emphasis on health insurance but just head out. Anyway rules are rules so he couldn't let me go with them! It was disappointing but hey diplomatic me just accepted it - like what could I do have a hissy fit? It just wasn't meant to be and was just another curve in the road to me!

So grabbed a room at the local YMCA which was nice, fairly cheap and had electricity!
They had no dorm rooms left so I got a double room for $10 with breakfast! Most of the people staying there work in town but are from another place so I was the only Muzungu. One guy (also ladies there too) staying there has been there 4 years! I may stay there again tonight as I'm waiting to hear from a guy in Nairobi about maybe hooking up with another group heading to Masa Mara. But I'll just wing it and take it one day at a time. I can't be bothered with specific planning each day.

So read my next posting to see if I become a regular at the YMCA or may get going somewhere like the Rift Valley or whereever the first bus or mutatu goes! So catch u later!

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Hey this Uganda is Great to visit and lots of fun!

Hey check out these pics of Uganda - of the hostel I stated at , live white ants this lady on a bus was nice enough to share with me, pics of the Nile river from the campground I stayed at, also a couple pics of the Nile from the balcony and the balcony of the bar of the campground hostel. Bar reminded me of a bar at a beach as it has a sand floor.











Well compared to the sedated quiet life in Kanyawegi for the past 8 wks this is more my speed. That's not to say I didn't love what I was doing in Kanyawegi because I loved it there but unfortunately maybe some people didn't think the same as me! Actually I had someone ask if I'd volunteer at a church (I don't think a church is ready for me and I don't want to set back any more programs for a few years!) and there are a few volunteer jobs here in Uganda even if I'm actually wanting to get into that for a while as it's too costly!

But getting back to what I seem the best at - travelling and hanging out! The matatu (mini van that's crammed with people) ride from Kisumu in Kenya to the Ugandan border were OK once Justine and I hooked up to catch it. Then we had to catch different matatus in Uganda. She was going to Kampala and I was going to Jinja. I could have taken hers as it was going through Jinja to get to Kampala but I would have had to pay the 10000 U Sh ($4) even if I got at Jinja. So I one to Jinja and paid 600 U SH and we separated ways. The highway to Jinja was crappy with potholes and dusty as heck! It was also hot and crowded and stopped every 10 mins to pick up and drop off passengers. I sat in the front of the bus so it was extra hot and I took in every swirve to miss the potholes and every on coming vehicle that we missed. It was only about 3 hrs but was a real trip. I either slept or listened to my mp3 player.

I stayed one night in Jinja at this Backpackers hostel and got an entire 8 bed dorm room to myself. I only stayed 1 night and then the next morning I took a mini bus to Kampala. The most interesting thing about that trip was the lady next to me. She was eating something out of a banana leaf. I thought it was small fish but she said it was white ants that were crawling around on the leaf. So I asked if I could try it didn't taste bad but not much taste so they said they also eat them cooked.

I got left off at the main bus station and took a boda boda (motorbike) to the Uganda Wildlife Authority. Unfortunately they didn't have any openings for 6 days and I didn't want to hang around Kampala until then. So I stayed one night at this other Backpacker hostel which was really nice with a bar, restuarant, internet and great people. Had a few drinks and headed to a bar in the evening to a bar with a live band as the live band scene in Kampala is fairly good. I got this guy to burn me this CD of all this African, Middle East, South American and other cuts that he picked up travelling for 10 years on the road. I think he funds his travel selling these CD's.

Actually the most exciting thing in Kampala is the Boda boda motorbike ride. They scream down the street darting through traffic, over curbs, on medians between traffic, down the wrong side of the street, down sidewalks thru pedestrians, etc. It was well worth the $2 I paid for a 20 min ride to get somewhere. I took it during rush hour in the rain, in the evening and anothe time and each time it was a real adrelaine rush. The ultimate rush is an evening ride on a boda boda as its hard to see. A person has to pretty well leave your fate on their skills. I thought I was going to lose a knee cap or toe driving between trucks and in front of traffic. Apparently if a person wants they can also drive the motorbike and the driver will be your passenger. I don't know if their insurance (or your life policy) if they have it covers this situation. But anyone going to Kampala has to try this!

I understand on Nov 20 the heads of states of the Commonwealth countries are meeting in Kampala so they're trying to clean up the streets. Sure glad I won't be there then as the traffic will be a night mare. Can just see the boda bada's bypassing the motor cades, etc (NOT).

Since I couldn't get a permit to visit the gorillas I decided to head back to Jinja as it's a lot nicer place to hang out. Jinja is a small city with the claim of being the place where the Nile RIver starts as water drains from Lake Victoria. There's a lot of rapids at the start of the river near by which is a tourist mecca for people who want aa adrenaline rush sport - white water rafting, white water kayaking, bungee jumping, rip cord trips over the wide Nile, ATV, mountain biking, etc.

There's a free shuttle bus running at 7 am from Kampala to Jinja so even though it was really early heck I'd get up at 1 am to get on a free bus. On my second stay in Jinja I'm staying out at the campgrounds by Jajuyba (sp) Falls on the Nile River. It's about 8 miles from town but it's really nice out here. I'm staying in a 4 bed dorm with another guy for $5 / night so can't complain. I was really tired and used to going to be around 8 pm so I went to bed at 9 pm. My room mate had just flown in from London so he went to bed before me. Had a great sleep until 11:30 PM when the music and noise woke me up. I tried to sleep through it but thought if I can't sleep then I may as well join them. So hung out drinking until about 3 am. Boy there were a lot of drunk people and I mean really pissed. It seems there's a party at this campground every night. I'm not going to try to sleep tonight as I won't get much sleep anyhow.

The location of this campsite is on a high bank above the Nile River and it's amazing how wide the Nile is even here. This area is a real tourist spot for Uganda as there are a lot of backpackers and families. I guess Uganda needs more electricity so the World Bank is helping them finaance another dam on the Nile. This will remove one of the big rapids that the white water rafters and kayakers like. So it will be interesting to see how the area is affected in the next 4 years. There are a lot of Mazungu's (whites) working and living in the Jinja area. It's a lot different environment than the village area I lived around Kisumu in Western Kenya. But there also a lot of volunteers here in Uganda and they all take off to Jinja for a wild weekend of adrenaline rush times.

There was this one girl who looked really tired so I asked her and she said It may be because of my 2 black eyes. I asked her how that happened and she said bungee jumping. I guess the cord was set too long, probably didn't change it for the rise in the river depth. I thought if you probably pay $100 you are assured a 100% chance of making it OK, $75 you get a 75% chance of making it OK and $50 you get 50% chance. But of course it isn't so but it kind of ruled out bungee jumping for me here! Actually after the boda boda rides I don't really need another adrenaline rush activity and so much less in price and so very real!

I was thinking of doing the tandem white water kayaking over class 5 rapids so they claim. But the $125 price so of makes me back off! Also I've seen the water condition of Lake Victoria around Kenya which makes me think of a mosiquito breeding ground. I just don't feel like rolling in a kayak through that type of cesspool! Also I've read where a person shouldn't swim in lakes of Africa as there are parasites that can invade a person's body if they aren't African and immune to the parasites. Most people here think well the water is flowing and what you don't know is best! Actually it's the price that puts me off as I can probably do these things back home. I'd rather spend my money going on a safari or seeing things of Kenya that I can't back home. Actually I've already got a few liters of Nile (the name of their national beer) in me so don't know if I need any from the river!

So I may stay here a couple more days soort of chilling out and then head back to Kenya and check out places there. Check to see where I go in the next 6 weeks.


Friday, November 9, 2007

Well may be the first volunteer to get the boot - but it was just a matter of time I guess

Well the KASOW Chairman replied by comment to my recent posting KASOW’s Request for 7400 KS ($130) from me - another Joke!. I am just too honest, stupid and outspoken for my own good. So I was told not to Volunteer at Kanyawegi (so how does one get told not to volunteer anymore?) but I guess if you've been reading my postings I gave you a forwarning of my opinion. I'm sorry but I definitely could have have been more tact ful. But anyone that knows me well realizes that I always say what's on my mind. I don't take any crap or when someone is trying to take advantage of me over money or whatever I see red and tell them off.
I've tried to figure out why I'm like that and maybe should give Dr. Phil a call for a reason why. The only thing I can think of is my family got shafted and moved to an internment camp when the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor and they lost their house and belongings. This is after my dad served in the Canadian army in battle. If I was around back then I would have been so pissed. I just think you can't let someone short change or walk over you and not stick up for your principles and not say something. I know that's a lame excuse but what else could it be as I don't think I have a chip on my shoulder about it or bitter! I just don't take any crap and let it be known, I guess. But then why is no one else in my family so outspoken and undiplomatic! Beats me! Well I'm definitely going to try to correct it as my 2008 New Year's resolution!

Hey I really love the people of Kenya and have no reason to anymore frustrated than other volunteers. It's just I just can't ignore like most. I'm really not the only person who is experiencing the same frustrations. However most of them are very diplomatic and keep their mouths shut.
I got an email from some one who's in Capetown in Heathrow when I was coming to Kenya.
She told me the following:"I'm glad to hear that you're time in Kenya has been so eye-opening, even though from what it sounds like on your blog, frustrating. I've experienced some of that same here in Cape Town too. It's very very frustrating. I understand your dilemma `. "

I'm in Uganda right now and travelled with a Canadian girl who's on an internship. She's the only muzungu (white) working for this NGO. She faces the same frustrations plus she can't trust her mentor! But she has the smarts just to put up with it. I talked to this English girl in a hostel in Jinja last night who's working for a NGO and she told me the same type of thing. She told me most Americans don't put up with a lot of crap and voice their opinion. I don't say they're the only nationality that does that as some of Canadians do too. But then I worked in Seattle for the past 6 years and feel quite American too! Most people can just ignore it I guess.

I do know I feel terrible if some of the friends I made in Kanyawegi are upset at me. I talk to them as friends and joke around with them so hopefully they don't misinterpret what I say. But I deserve what ever trash they pile on me but I've getting that from people all my life.

So to my family and friends who donated to my trip. I'm offering to return your donations as my way of saying sorry if I maybe let you down. I received it to help setup the Computer Resource Center and I got it started. But if you feel like I let you down just let know and I'll send it back

I've been too embarrassed to tell you guys but it's probably been 3 months since you donated it and I still haven't received the funds. So I'm been using my own money in the meantime as I didn't have the heart to say it hasn't arrived. So it got to the point that I decided a few weeks to just return the donations to you guys, so let me know how you want it done. But this lateness of the donation you paid has been sort of at the heart of my predictament. However it still doesn't excuse me for not using any tact in my email.

I keep forgetting that I'm dealing with people of a different culture but I've always just treated the Kenyans as my equal and say to them what I say to anybody - MISTAKE! So I'll apologize to the KASOW Committee for writing them that email. However I still stick to what I said but if I had to do it again I'd wouldn't be so outspoken but with the same thoughts.

So unfortunately I became a casualty of my own doing. So for the people who don't know me well, my heart was in the right place too bad my mouth isn't. I've come to the conclusion that although I love Africa and volunteering. I don't think Africa/Kenya is ready or needs volunteers like me!

Well we only have 2 weeks left in the village and I had already made plans to go to Uganda and Nakuru for 2 weeks. Heck I'm not upset at the Committee as I forget what I say 5 mins after saying it. Plus I had fun in the village while it lasted and I can say I made some great new friends. I hope they don't just remember and talk about me as that crazy muzungu for I don't want to be remembered that way. So if anyone is still interested in reading my blogs they will probably be about my Walkabouts in Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania. If I can get to a computer. But please free to comment and trash me as I can handle it as well as dish it out! Sorry for giving Canadians a bad name - that did I read in the comment that it will take years to recover. Heck even my 2 kids are scared that their Dad will say something to embarrass them. So I guess you could say they can place title of that old song "I did it My Way" on my epitaph when someone who I upset one day puts me away 6 ft under.

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Going on a Walkabout

So I’m heading on a Walkabout which is a word the Aborgines/Abo in Aussie use when a person goes aimlessly out to walk about the country side. The only difference is what I’m doing is I’m not totally walking but going to take a Matatu (minibus). If all goes the way I plan I hope to leave Thur from here to the Ugandan border. Then walk across the border and pick up another minibus Jinja. I probably mention that Jinja is a town famous as the Nile River starts there. I’ll check it out for a couple days to see how expensive the whitewater rafting, whitewater kayaking, bungee jumping, etc costs. If I can do any of them really cheap I may try it. But I have a tempermental back which acted up 3 years ago when I got hit by a car walking across the street on a walk light in Seattle (no I didn’t get tons of money suing the driver as unfortunately he had little to zero insurance). But basically I don’t want to spend a lot of money to try these things out as I’ve done whitewater rafting and it was fun but only if the rapids are great. The whitewater kayaking would be a totally new experience but I should take some lessons first.

Then I’ll head to Kampala to check it out. I’ve emailed this Backpacker Hostel and they tell me they can still get me a permit to track the Mountain Gorillas. So if that works out then I’ll bite the bullet and check them out! The Mountain Gorilla and Giant Pandas are 2 animals that I would really like to see in their native habitat. However my chances of seeing the Panda are pretty well slim and none due to restrictions. The Ugandan and Rwandan government have this fee of about $500 for a permit. Yeah I know it’s a lot of money but everyone I’ve talked to say it’s worth the price to see them. So we’ll see how it goes.

So anyway I don’t know how long I’ll be gone but it’s as long as it takes. I have a couple things that I’m finishing up here but it’s mostly to insure that Projects I’ve worked on ie Computer Resource Center, Woman’s Sewing/Tailoring Group and KASOW Youth Group are going forward. I had organized a “Taking the Next Step” towards Self Sustainability Forum as I mentioned in a previous Posting. However it was a huge draw so I’ve come to the conclusion that people are either not interested in being Self Sustaining or need a boot to get them to do any thing. So I doubt if I’ll pursue that any further in the time I have left.

I keep mentioning that I like the people in Kenyawegi and am starting to make friends so it would be hard to leave. But hey the wandering Free Spirit Guy that I am I want to check over the next hill, I guess!

KASOW’s Request for 7400 KS ($130) from me - another Joke!


This is NOT going to make me a lot of friends but hey I’m leaving town on Thur plus I’m doing what someone else here told me “they weren’t here to make friends but to help the people’!!.

Anyway I was shocked when Mike (the Treasurer) called me yesterday asking if I was still going to buy a wheel barrow and shovel. I was training some students in the Computer Resource Center so I didn’t have much time so I said I suppose so. I asked how much and he said 7700 KS. I said why so much and he said its for a wheelbarrow, hoe, rake, hammer, sheet metal, etc, etc.etc. I thought to myself “why doesn’t’ KASOW squeeze me for an oxen, plow, goat and a couple chickens and maybe throw in a couple Buraries while they’ve got a live Sucker! I said all that can’t be tools so he said well then you can pay 7000KS ($100). So I said Gee Golly thanks and OK as my mind was on helping the student. But after thinking about it for about 1 hour and decided I’m not paying those for KASOW.

So let me provide some background on what transpired on this issue.

Back in Aug I talked to my family and friends about volunteering in Africa and setting up a Computer Resource Center for kids to learn. They all know I’ve worked in the IT field for the past 25+ years starting as a Computer Programmer but mostly as a Systems Analyst. A Systems Analyst analyzes a problem, provides alternatives and recommends a solution which if accepted by my customers we implement the solution. I felt that some of my skills could be useful in a few Projects. All of these people donated to help me pay for my costs and to use some funds ONY to help me set up a Computer Resource Center. My understanding was that there were desktops but no monitors. I thought I would purchase a couple monitors and use the remainder of the money to cover a small portion of my costs.

When I arrived at Kanyawegi I checked out the 7 desktops and 1 laptop and found that there were only 2 desktops that I could resurrect and the laptop functioned. I found that there were in fact 2 monitors so there was no actual need to purchase any monitors.

So at one of our first KASOW meetings there was talk that farmers don’t use cow manure for some unknown reason. Someone mentioned that it was probably due to the fact that the farmers had no way to haul the stuff. So rather than keep stepping on the stuff whenever I walked out the door I offered to pay for a wheel barrow and shovel (which I figure would be around 2500KS or $35) to pick up the crap! Well when it’s to KASOW”s favor they have a long memory and remember my offer!

So then the members of the Demonstration Farm asked when I would be buying the wheel barrow and shovel. They were told that funds were available for them (probably thought when Tom gives it to them).

So fast forward to last Sat when I mentioned this at the KASOW meeting. Mike you said blaw, blaw, blaw Tom you talk about sharing and helping the community, etc so why can’t you donate money for a wheel barrow and shovel. I stated that I don’t see anyone else digging in their pockets to buy anything except for one person. But after making me feel like a real Ass I said OK I’ll buy the wheelbarrow and shovel (which was my initial offer). But I kept thinking that I don’t feel KASOW lives up to their idea of sharing.! Take my favorite topic the KASOW Laptop that I thought was going to be used in the Computer Resource Center. I had just moved it to the Obambo and was going through the procedure of signing the inventory over to Barrack. When in marches a couple of KASOW Committee members who have never appeared there since. They stated the laptop is for the KASOW Committee and is not to be used here and Helen was to have told me! Helen wasn’t even home when we moved the computers. It would have been better if Maurice told me as he helped me move it. Anyway we had to remove it. I thought what does KASOW use that High Tech Laptop (NOT) for and I was told to type up the KASOW meeting minutes. Like maybe 2 times a month and how often would it be used in the Computer Resource Center – like everyday and by who? Try the community!!!! So don’t give me this crap about not sharing or whatever. I don’t see the Committee members digging into their pockets to pay for anything. Matter of fact Mike your memory is short as you were to show us the ledger of how the funds are being used and never did. But was I to bring it up? So I ask why wasn’t it on the list of agenda topics?

While I’m airing some Greavances – the meetings / volunteers’ status report is a JOKE!. This meeting is only a one way feed of information. We review the last meeting status, then the volunteers provide their new status while various Committee receive VERY IMPORTANT phone calls that they need to respond to and disappear out the door! Question do you not have an ON/OFF button on your phone? I think I’ve attended a couple of meetings in my career and there’s usually like some downward feedback to us peons from the equivalent to the KASOW Committee.

At KASOW’s Meetings (Volunteer Organization) I think that there should be:

1.Treasurer’s report handed to us providing a breakdown of what monies are available, used and status of expected funding.

2. John’s report stating his expectations, funding issues, etc.

3. Boaz’’s report stating the status of purchases, issues and funds spent.

4. An update of the work plan from the previous meeting

5. Problems, To Do and By Whom Lists plus maybe some Milestone dates to verify if we can complete Projects by Nov 24 or the end of our stay

However we have to continually keep asking about funding issues ie if the Goat Project has funds, are there funds to even start the Demonstation Farm etc, etc. I know some of the KASOW committee have full time jobs but hey part of the function of the Committee is to provide us information for us to plan what we have to do. I feel bad about criticizing the members but hey no one said the truth doesn’t hurt! But I’ve always wanted to ask this question “What exactly is the KASOW Committee’s purpose, like what do you actually do except chair a waste of time Meeting?”

So the bottom line is if KASOW has purchased the 7400KS of TOOLS, etc, etc, etc. Then you can get a refund, take the funds out of the difference the 4 initial volunteers should get back from the 4 new members or KASOW, be creative about scrapping together the 7400 KS or maybe use those tools as rentals to recuperate the initial cost. So of like you talk about what the KASOW Youth Group doesn’t do. But wait isn’t there a similarity between the KASOW Committee and the KASOW Youth Group. It’s hard to get any guidance, recommendations or advice from either group

I gave the Committee ample warning that I was returning the funds donated from my family and friends. Plus I have no obligation to spend donations given to help me pay my costs to pay for wheelbarrow and shovel. Who is going to use them when we leave? Is it actually going to be used? How about the sheet metal? Could they build a nice Outhouse complete with a sheet metal roof?

The KASOW Committee is like the people we’re here to help! They want some donations given to an individual to pay his move than $4000 fee to come to volunteer as Funds to be spent by them. Mike you suggested maybe I should buy a couple monitors. I almost threw up my lunch in laughter and had to ask “What are we going to do with them? We don’t have any working desktops. Maybe I should buy a laptop”. Good thing I mumbled it or it would be noted that Tom is buying a laptop for KASOW.

Most of the items you mentioned are for the Demonstration Farm which I had NO say in the Project or did it even start? If I did have I would have said that the Project has as much time to fly as a Pig flying especially in the time frame of 10 weeks and even less in the 6 or 7 weeks there was when I first started hearing about it. But then I would have upset and alienated a few people which I’m doing now but what the heck I’m a realist. So I haven’t heard a thing about that Project but now I’ve heard about the Busary Project which I don’t endorse either.

It seems that volunteers are starting Projects to keep occupied other wise there isn’t any thing for them to do! Then there are some doing research to figure out if a project would fly. In my way of thinking it is best to do the research before setting down here in the Village. We don’t have enough time to research, get the equipment and still implement the Project in 10 weeks given the environment and challenges we face. On those most we would be looking up a Dead Horse’s A—to even start them. I think I was told that the previous group spent 10 months meeting and planning before leaving Vancouver.

I hate to be told that I don’t spend or want to share with the community! I don’t want to blow my own horn but I am giving assistance to 3 people in the community. I also paid for the repair of the Obambo Secondary laptop as the keys didn’t function. At any time I will help members of our household with something and most of the time when I return from Town I bring them something. My indulgences are matatu fares, internet time, phone cards (as I had the only phone and amounted to like free airtime except one card provided me) , bottle water, pocket books and the occasion box of cookies or candies and apples. I give most of these items to my friends who work at our house. So don’t give me any crap about not sharing or wanting to help the people of Kanyawegi or I’ll really get Pissed!

So read my lips “I am not spending the money donated to ME from my family and friends for the wheel barrow, tools and lord knows what else you included as you probably can’t provide me a receipt not that I really want to see it!

I know I didn’t win any friends with this email but like I said at the start I’m not here to make any friends. Although I feel I have made friends with the many farmers, teachers and young people all who I really like and care to help.

So if everyone is happy and want to string me up, well I won’t be around town for the next week or 2 as I had made plans weeks ago before our interesting Meeting.

Saturday, November 3, 2007

Have about 3 weeks left in Kanyawegi Village so plan to check out some nearby places

Well time has slid by fairly quickly as I've enjoyed my stay here in Kanyawegi. It's nice to be able to walk down the road and know people by name, stop and talk to them about their life. If I could I'd like to stay longer but I can only spare so much of my spiritual guidance here as it's needed elsewhere - Not! So much for the crap but what is true is liking the people here. What I'm not so crazy about is their lack of initiative to start something. But I understand that it's a cultural thing which I've been trying to tell them they need to work on changing to advance their hope of being self sustaining. They all mean well but things don't happen that easy. I guess I just find it frustrating that I can't help them get further with their hopes and plans. Some will advance themselves but many will be spinning their tires and not progressing. But heck progress is not for everyone! They basically happy and maybe that's what matters! The Muzungu's (white person/ not black) way aren't necessarily what they need or is the best! But don't get me wrong that's not what we're trying to instill here. We are basically interested in helping them understand what they need to do to live with out help (if possible).

The people are always saying Hello or How are you?, etc. The kids are actually the funniest as they are all so eager to talk to us. I walk through the fields alot using my shortcuts to get places. I hear kids yelling "How are you?" and I can't even see them. So I yell "Ber" (Good). At first I would stop and say "what's your name?" they'd answer "How are you?" So we realized that that's the only English expression they maybe know. But hey, that's still more than I know their dialect of Luo or the national language "Kiswahilli/Sawahilli". But the main thing is the people are also smiling even if a lot of them have led and are having a hard time with their lives.

Well we had 2 new people join our Volunteer team. We got Mike who is Katy's boyfriend from back home. He arrived on Wed afternoon after flying for 2 nights from Vancouver to Nairobi and then climbing on a 7 hrs bus trip from Nairobi to Kisumu which is near our village. The 2 night flt lays out most people but to do that long and bumpy 7 hr bus ride. Well I guess that's what people do when they're dating! Maybe I was married too long or didn't appreciate my wife which may be why we're separated. Oh well we all make our beds!

So where was I oh yeah then on Thur we had Adrienne join us. We got a grant from UBC to do a Nutrition Survey and generally find out the food, prices and nutrition of the diets of kids, pregnant women and sick people, etc. Then another person is coming in Feb to implement some changes to the diets of the people. I sure glad that some changes to their diet by simply making them aware of what is healthly or provides them more nutrition.

Then tomorrow, Jessica's mother and her friend are joining us. They are 2 retired longterm teachers who want to visit the schools to help out. Heck there is still hope for some of the teachers that I know! Most of you have great backgrounds and experience to help people out here. Heck if an old IT guy like me can do a couple projects, just think what a knowledgeable person could do.

So we have our last KASOW Committee Meeting on Sun and then just after that I hope to attend my last KASOW Youth Group Meeting. I guess I should let them know about my plans to check out Uganda at the end of next week. I kind of got itchy feel and am looking forward to getting on the road and checking out some places. I hope to take the local Matatu (mini bus) to the Uganda border. Then walk across to get my Ugandan Visa and catch another Matatu to the town of Jinja. I’m catching the local mini bus even though it’s a pain because the long distant bus runs later in the day and doesn’t get into Uganda until after dark. I’ve always had a policy of always trying to get to a strange place during the day. Also being 1/2 the price helps but it’s twice as tiring and uncomfortable. Anyway when in Rome do as the Romans do I guess I'll take the local transportaation and catch a few zzzz's.

Then I hope to go to Kampala (the capital city) and check out maybe getting a permit to track and see the Mountain Gorillas. It's a bit expensive and I don't know if there's any permits left as there's only a limited number given out. So I'll wing it and see what happens. Adrienne the girl that just arrived was doing a Nutrition Survey in Rwanda before she came here. She was able to go on a trek and said yes it's expensive and you only get 1 hr to view them. But she said it's well worth the price to see the gorillas swinging on the trees, etc. So I'm determined to check them out as I may never get a chance to see them in their natural environment again. She told me that it was easy to get a permit in Rwanda. It's the rainy season so it's low season and their park is located right next to the one in Uganda. So I guess I've have to pull out the rain coat and hiking boots that I used on Mt. Killamanjaro. Oh well nothing ventured nothing gained.

So I'll probably be gone for a week or however long it takes. Then I want to come back to the village, wash my clothes, leave my mtn climbing stuff here. Then maybe head to Nakuru which is the city which is close to the Rift Valley. The Rift Valley is really an interesting and beautiful area where there has been a shift in the earth's crust. There's a deep valley and high hills and beautiful lakes and wild life. So I'd like to check that out while I'm here.

Then when I get back, I'll wash my clothes check out a few of the projects. Ones I worked on to see if they're going Ok and then get ready to leave the village. We have a 4 day excusion to Masa Mara which is the international game reserve where everyone goes to see all the Kenyan wild life. It's right across the border from the equally fantastic Sergenti Plains of Tanzania.

So I'll probably be near an internet cafe to post something I hope. So catch you later.

What was it that Chinese Dude said "A Pic is worth a 1000 words or something" well if it's true than I posted a couple 1000 words with my boring pics

Lets see what boring maybe meaningless pics did I post?
1. a fundee (tradesperson) building a stone house around a mud hut. It's a neat idea as he uses the old roof. Keeps the mud walls in tact until the new walls are up. Then they remove the mud walls. Another thing that's neat is he's using rocks from the surrounding area and breaking them to fit.
2. Some pics of the training of the Oxens that we got for our Oxens and Plow Project. These oxens aren't super big like I imagine as they bought younger ones so they would last longer. So having decided on this there is a little more training to do. You can't just hook up the oxens and expect them to work. They have to get each other and be friends (humans get to know each other and then work together so why shouldn't oxens). I helped keeping the oxens in a line and it was a bit of a gas. It was like being in a rodeo when I got to whip them to get their attention. Then they tried to shed their yokes so they'd get all twisted around. So I grabbed hold of either the oxen or yoke and pulled or twisted to get them back in line. The Kenyan guys would pull their tails at times but I gave that a pass as I knew how lethal it can be hanging around that end as I'd rather take my chances with their head. So you can say training them is Like a Crap Shoot!
3. Pic of the Obambo Market place before the ladies brought their goods to sell. By the way a lot of the men here in Kenya are about as well trained as the oxens and work even less (like some back home too). The women do most of the work. While the men go to town to look for jobs (or so they say) carrouse with some lady folks and bring home whatever back to their wives.
4. Pic of a lady at the Obambo Market cooking some Nile Perch on a Jiko and another of Tilapia being cooked at our house on a Jiko. The Talapia fish is so delicious to eat as I find it one of my favorite food here. The Nile Perch is also good eating but having ate as much of it. The Jiko is the main means people use to cook both outside and moved in their hut if it rains. It kind of reminds me of the old habachi's that people used to bbq on back home years ago. These Jiko's are made of cast iron with some type of baked mud coating on the inside to keep the heat in and keep the cast iron from breaking down from the heat.
5. Pic of a huge papa ea which are grown here, as you can see from my hand they are huge but delicious.
6. Pic of the Obambo Secondary school where I've setup the Computer Resource Center. This Secondary School has a good reputation in the surrounding area. They also have boys and girls domitories as they expect the kids to concentrate on their studies. Where if they go home at nights their parents will have them do farm work or get water. It's very expensive for the students to go to Secondary School as the parents have to pay with no support from the government which makes me mad! This is while the MP's in Kenya are the highest paid MP"s in the world according to what was stated on TV. Katy and Jessica are going to start interviewing widows and other parents to maybe set up a Bursary program back home to support some of these kids so they can complete their high school. The sad thing is the kids complete their high school and go to college if they can afford it. Then there aren't enough jobs for people that graduate. Maybe not much different than back home for some graduates. However a big difference is that people have to pay to get a job here. It can be up to 70.000 KS ($1000) for police or military jobs which is a kings ransom here or back home for a new graduate. This corruption has to stop or this country is not going anywhere. We were told that things are getting to the point now where young people (without jobs) hold up buses and steal everything from the passengers. It's not safe to walk down some street of Nairobi or you'll get robbed.
Also there are sort of like the Kenyan mafia operating in certain areas. They extort businesses for protection money they are so getting desperate! They don't let the Mutatu's leave as they want to get a cut of the money as they say they load passengers on the mutatu's (minibuses). They don't understand that people don't need to put them on the bus as they know which bus to catch but the Touts as they're called want a cut or there's a big argument. This stuff goes on everytime I catch a matatu so it's a real pain and takes 20 mins extra to get going some times from town to back to the village. While it's still strange that there are still a lot of locals in the bar (down stairs from this internet cafe) drinking and watching the English football (soccer) match. Don't know how they can afford it. But there are a lot of English people there too watching the game. There's alos a bar at the Obambo Market where I see a few men drinking. Yesterday I was walking by the Obambo Secondary and there was this older guy laying in the dirt in the hot sun. I thought he had a heartattack or something but he was just drunk! Drunkness is not a real big issue here but I guess Grass among the young is pretty high! Haven't had the luck of running into any yet! Actually I wouldn't participate as I have to set an example here I suppose!
7. A pic of Angus's Special Ed class at the Obambo Primary School. Some of these kids are actually in need of Special Ed type class. But no one wanted to teach so Angus offerred to give it a try. A sad thing he told us is that some parents feel that some sicknesses are contagious. He told me the parents think that Ellipesy is contagious. The parents must tell this to the kids because none of them want to help them out! It's sad and unfortunate that these kids are put in the Special Needs class which has no real teacher.
8. Had to take this pic of a young village girl hauling wood for her parents. Most of these kids work hard to help their parents. Even at the school the prinicipal tells the kids to haul the desks outside under the tree so we can have a meeting. The kids do it without saying a thing. Need some Kenyan obedience at some schools back home. Heck I could have used a lot of it when I was in school.












Thursday, November 1, 2007

Dec 27 is an important date for all Kenya – Election for the New President

It's surprised me that Kenya would have a federal election so soon after Christmas! But regardless there won’t be a shortage of people who will come out to vote! The Election is all the talk on the radio, newspapers and probably TV too but I haven’t seen a TV program for over a month.

The Candidates are:

  1. Mwaai Kibaki, the current President, who the polls say is second in the 3 person rate!
  2. Raila Odinga the polls say is leading the 3 candidates and is from Western Kenya where we are located
  3. Kalonzo Musyoka the polls say is trailing in the race

Yeah, everyone in Kenya is hoping for a new President as the current one Kibaki is so corrupt! However corruption in government isn't strange for a developing country. Kibaki is the 3rd president of Kenya since they got their independence in the 1960’s. Jomo Kenyetta was the first president and I believe was a fairly good person however people say he was corrupt too. Kenyetta passed away in office in 1978 and his assistant Daniel Moi took over the presidency. I believe Moi stayed in office for a long time and until he retired in 2002. When he left office he had amazed a fortune which made him one of the richest men in Africa at the time. However I believe not to be outdone, the current ruler of Zimbabwe Robert Mulgabe has surpassed him. However there is always another ruler who is bound to outdo him too!

The current government has been trying to get Moi to return some of the 100+ billion Kenya Shillings (approx $1.5 Billion) that he has allegedly absconded however both are speculation. If he did take that much and they could get some back it would really help the country.

One thing I’m glad to see in Kenya is there is freedom of speech and the people can criticize the party in power at least on the street!

But surprise, surprise the Candidates are all saying the right things in their campaigns. Odinga who is the people’s hope has made a promise I’d most like to see his party keep. It’s the removal of Secondary School fees so all kids can go to high school. Of course he has other major promises which will also help the country.

I’d hate to rain on anyone’s parade so I’d don’t want to remind people that politicians the world over make big promises in their campaign. Then they have a memory dump when they get elected or at least make minor alterations to their original promise.

Unfortunately it seems the Kenyan people are putting all their hopes and dreams for a better life on the election of Odinga! I hope for their sake this all comes true. I don’t know what will happen if it doesn’t come true. I'd like to be here in the new year to see what happens either way! They may have some demonstrations but it seems to me that their way is simply to accept things. But then what are their alternatives in a normally peaceful country?

The people talk about corruption in the government which is true. However there is a bit of corruption at all places public and private. Kids complete university and college and then can’t find jobs. It’s true that there is a shortage of jobs. However equally important is that it doesn’t matter what your marks are in school. You have to know someone to get a job. In Arabic they use the word ‘Wasta” meaning having connections. Someone was telling me if you want to join say the army the recruiters want 70,000KS (about $10,000) to get a job. Heck what kid coming out of school can afford to pay that much for a job. They tell me that if you pay that you shouldn’t bother paying the middle person in charge as you’d still have to pay the guy at the top. So just go to the top dog and pay him (if you have to pay anyone). If you graduate in Business Admin you’d have at least be available to apply (and pay) for a office type job. It doesn’t mean you won’t have to work in a clerical job (if you know someone at the company). There are a lot of unemployed people in Kenya who have graduated from university, college and high schools. The future doesn’t look bright for them seeing as how corrupt the officials can be.

The people in high positions don’t just become corrupt when they reach these positions! They have been corrupting people in small ways since they were kids.

I can see minor bits of corruption at the lowest sector of Kenyan society. But I guess their culture is based on everyone feeding themselves and not trusting even their closest friend in matters concerning money. Yes it happens in all cultures but not to their extreme!

I suggested to KASOW Youth Group that they could raise money for the many projects they want to do to help the community. They could rent out the bicycles donated by a previous volunteer group. The Youth Group told me that the people will rent the bikes but won’t pay them. So we said take a deposit and the balance when it’s returned. Then they said the people may take the bike to town and sell them. We told them then rent them only to people they knew in the community. Also maybe hold their Kenyan ID card as collateral for the bike’s safe return.

The people must learn to trust and share ideas and things if they ever want to become self sustaining. They can’t depend on foreign aid to support them. They ask for Ideas on how they can start something. So when we give them some Ideas and they ask for Advice. Then in some cases they want either a Subsidy or Sponsorship in the form of funding. So now we realize that we are are providing the Ideas, Advice so we are telling them how to proceed. This isn’t a big deal however I come to realize that Human Nature is if the Idea isn’t a person’s to begin with then they won’t take ownership and follow through to completer it.

It’s hard to be hard on a person as the Kenyan’s are such nice people. But we aren’t doing them any good if we provide them everything for free!

Actually maybe I'm a little cynical now but I tell the people that the time of free handouts is over! They have to learn to stand on their own 2 feet! Hopefully the future KASOW volunteers carry on the message. I don't want to be hard on them but from what I can tell from the villagers they came in a large group and taught a bit of HIV/AIDS education and hung out with the Youth Group as they were about the same age. Then when they left they left them their bicycles and laptops which the people don't share with others. It's nice of them to leave things that they bought because they seemed like rich kids. But they have to understand that the villagers have to leave to share what they're given plus how to use the bikes and laptops to make some money. Most of the Youth Group have meetings where they talk about projects but can't get off their butt and do any thing! I plan to attend my last KASOW Committee and KASOW Youth Group meeting on Sun. I told the Youth group to come with ideas on how to make some money - if they don't have ideas I have a few ideas of what I'm going to tell them. Catch my next posting on last 2 meetings with them!




Had a Forum/Meeting to discuss Self Sustaining and Very few came - a bit of a bummer!

Have you ever heard the saying "Had a party and no one came"? Well it sort of happened to me!
I put up posters in 3 primary schools, secondary school, health clinic, market place and told many people who were interested. We had a real small turnout of mostly people I knew (supported by my 3 fellow volunteers). Hey but don't feel sorry for me as I'm feeling sorry for myself. I'm a bit pissed but I realize that's one of the challenges we face here in Kenya. We try to help the villagers in any way we can. I'm beginning to think that they need to come up with their own ideas to improve their lifestyle. In that way they take ownership of it and work to complete it. Actually most of them simply want a handout or donation.

My meeting (check a previous posting called "Taking the Next Step") was to explain what they have to do to love without help. How they have to change some of their ways of thinking, etc.
They all want to change their lifestyle and want to know how. I setup a meeting and have a couple of people in the community who have made it good. So what happens most don't show up. Well it's really their loss.

We had a retired Economics teacher in a college who is now trying various crops on his farm. He said that people should grow sunflowers as there's a good market for the oil. He's willing to buy it off the farmers and sell them to the big marketers. I say if the villagers get more for sunflower than maize (corn which everyone grows to make ugali the main food of Kenya) then the villagers should try growing both. If it grows as good as he claims and the market is as good then they should switch and only grow sunflowers. Heck then sell the sunflower and buy the maize they need for food and pocket the extra money from their sale. Then they would be further ahead than just growing maize.

Then there was a head teacher at the meeting who isn't worth a shit as an administrator but surprised me with how he's doing with his farm. He bought some poultry, got proper medication, built a fence to keep out animals, got poison to kill the chicken's main predator - the mongoose. He raises new chicks and sells some of the grown chickens. Then he buys goats which multiple like rabbits. He sells these and buys cows and then has milk and cattle to sell.
I also asked Joseph who helps run the Community Bank to attend and bring some of his successful clients. Then talk to the people and maybe get some to open accounts. They have to adopt the idea of saving money to cover droughts or hard times when they need money.
I figure these are ideas that these people are willing to share unlike most villagers who are unwilling to share ideas. I said people should go to successful people not to get a handout but for something more valuable. Find out what these people did to become successful as these are people from their community. There's nothing a successful person likes to do then talk about how they made it. Don't get me wrong as the 2 people I mentioned are humble people and like most Kenyans don't brag like people back home!

Unfortunately most farmers didn't attend so it was a bit of a lost session.

A lot of people want advice, ideas, help getting started and finally want a bit of a donation as they have need money. We tell them to maybe work at something else to make starting capital. I said the guy who wanted cattle didn't go and try to buy cows right away. He raised chickens, then goats first. These are some of the things that I wanted to instill in them with this meeting.
I told them if you're climbing a big mountain, you don't try to walk straight up vertically but think about traversing the mountain as it's easier that way.
So they try something else first to make the money to get the funds to start. Then Don't get me wrong there's a lot of people willing or do try it. But many want a cow right away as many want to see whatever they're working towards right away.

I was a bit pissed at the Woman's Tailoring/Sewing Group as I attended meetings and intervened to get them a Uniform Tender (contract) at the Primary School. As I mentioned in a previous posting they couldn't get their act together to get the tender and were waiting for John (the Kenyan who lives in Canada who is doing so much to assist the villagers by organizing idiots like myself to volunteer here) to get them a tender at the schools (and he's in Canada). So I told them I'd help them. So we gave them a proposal on how we'd provide it to the principal and the parents to make it a win-win scenario for all parties. They told me that it cost 150 KS ($2.50) to buy the material for the uniform. So we based the proposal on this price so there's a profit for them, a bit to put in the bank and enough to buy material for uniforms for orphans who can't afford it. So we had a 4 hr meeting (2 hrs of waiting and 2 hrs of talking) with the parents. I went to visit the Woman's Group yesterday to give them a ledger I made up so they could keep their records. They hadn't provide an interpreter for me during the meeting. So I asked them what they were discussing about the price at the meeting. Well they told me that the parents were complaining about the price of the uniforms. So the Woman's Group dropped the price of the uniforms by about 150 KS to 300KS for an extra large so I knew the small was a lot less. I was pissed at myself for not demanding an interpreter so I could have understood and then said something at the meeting. I said well the cost of the material is 150 KS so you won't make any profit plus there's no money to buy material for the orphan's uniform. Then they told me what really pissed me off! The price of 150 KS for the boy's uniform was only for the shorts. The shirt was another 105KS. The girl's uniforms were the same thing as the material for the blouse was extra. I tore a strip out of them and said why didn't you tell me the exact price of the material as this was a cost and was needed to figure out their profit margin. Plus why didn't they tell me at the meeting that they were accepting a lower price for the uniforms.

I told them they accepted the agreement (I was so pissed) so they have to honor it. I did talk to the principal and he said he'd try and get the parents to share the cost of the orphan's uniforms (my primary concern). I guess the parents wanted the Woman's Group to absorb the cost of the Orphan's uniforms. I wish I knew what they had talked at the meeting because I would have loved to tell them what I thought. Oh well 2 steps forward and 1 to 1 1/2 steps back! Another day in the life of a Volunteer! It can be rewarding (seeing the friendly people even in their poor economic condition) and frustrating (groups that want your ideas then don't give you the correct information).

I still have 300KS owed to me by the Woman's Group for the material I paid for the sample uniforms. I want them to pay me back even if it's only about $5.50. I want them to understand that they have to pay back loans as they said they would. The lady was to get the money yesterday when she went to town. I plan to go see her when I get back to the village. If she makes some lame duck excuse then I'll just take her sewing machine until she gets the money or at least teach them a lesson. I figure this is how they'll learn - the school of hard knocks! If I just write it off they'll never learn - just like kids!

I tried some new things at this meeting. I gave away door prizes by writing down 2 numbers and having them keep one piece and putting the other one in a bag. Then we drew it at the end of them meeting. It was funny because we started the meeting under a large tree in the school yard. When I said a door prize they couldn't figure out what the door was so I told them it's just a term. As it turned out we had a flash rainstorm so we had to run to a classroom and then we had a door! Actually I lost the bag containing all the numbers so I had to give them new numbers. I gave them 3 or 4 pens (my sister Pat had given me a bunch plus I had some that I brought so I separated the total amounts into separate bunches and gave a little to each school and they were thrilled). also had a couple of Rubics Cubes that Jessica brought, got a couple of cell phone cards. They were really excited about the door prizes. I hope I didn't set a precedence that's hard to follow!

We told them about some ways to raise money is maybe the various Woman's Groups could have fund raisers. They could have a charity Football Match (they're crazy about soccer here) where the teachers play the students. Then everyone pays 10 KS (15 cents) and they draw a number and who ever wins gets half the pot and the charity gets the other half. Some of our ideas were pretty new to them. They all nodded and said yes that's a good idea but who knows if they'll ever try it. Most people don't have any initiative to try something! I told them if I came back in 10 years they'll still be talking about new ideas. I told them they don't have to be pushed. but if they turned around I'd give them a boot!
The custom in Kenya before a meeting is to have someone say a prayer. So your's truly had everyone hold their neighbor's hands and I said a prayer (this may be my next calling)! Then I told them "2000 years ago Moses said get on your asses and I'll take you to the Promised land. It's the new Millineum so get off your Asses and get to work to make this the Promised Land".
I'm coming to the conclusion that a person has to be hard on them sometimes.

I still say that there are a lot of great people that I've made friends with here. The majority are hard working and want to better themselves but a lot of the men are lazy, shiftless womanizers that I wouldn't want any woman I knew.

Anyway what did I learn? Well that that may have been my last hurrah! I have about 3 weeks left in the Village. We're only about 2 hrs from Uganda so I'm going to grab a Matatu and visit the country. There's a town called Jinja where the Nile River (the world's longest river) starts. They also have Whitewater Rafting, bungee jumping, kayaking, hiking, biking, etc. So I maybe give it a visit. Then I'll head to Kampala to check out the capital and see if there's a chance to visit the mountail gorillas (a bit expensive and a person needs to apply 3 mths ahead to get a permit so my chance seems remote like the gorillas). But we'll see as I'll just may take in the sights and be gone for a week or so.

Well we got another volunteer yesterday - Mike who is Katy's boyfriend. Then I understand on Sun they'll be 3 more arriving. Jessica's mother and her friend who are retired school teachers. Also Adrienne I think her name is who is an UBC student who is coming to do a food survey!
So it will be a little more crowded. I guess not one wants to share a bed. So Katy and Mike will be in 1 room, Jessica and Angus. Then Jessica's mother and her friend in the master bedroom. Then Mildred who is th e cook in one and I'm in the other. But since I'm going to travel for a couple weeks I'll give up my room to Adrienne as no one else is. The plan was to have Mildred sleep in the living room. But she wouldn't have a mosiquito net and Kenyans don't take malaria pills and she just had a doze of malaria a week or so ago. So I've offerred to sleep in the porch if I get a mosquito net. If I don't get one then all bets are off and Adrienne can sleep with the 2 old ladies or whatever. I'll sleep in the porch on a table with the cushions from the sofas! Heck I have mosquitos and bats in my room so those things won't change. But oh well I won't be sleeping there more than probably 6 or 7 nights after Sun when those women come. It'll be a lot cooler than my room to sleep as it'll be like camping and be cool in the early morning. I guess I won't be able to sleep buck naked as the local kids will be gawking! No one said volunteering is easy plus my accommodation and food feeds didn't say I'd get deluxe accommodations. But I can't sleep anywhere as long as I have a mossie net!

So check out my blog as I may post one from Uganda if I make it there. Adios!

About Me

Project Team - John Agak, Lydia, Jessica, Katy, Angus, Tom kenyaprojects@gmail.com