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Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Still Alive as I Made it to Summit of Mt. Killimanjaro 19200 ft (5980 m)


























It was an awesome idea to climb the tallest freestanding mtn in the world and tallest in Africa. But when we went to do it, it was both a real physical and mental experience. Most of us who did it say it’s the hardest thing we’ve ever done.
We left Nairobi on a Sun to enter Tanzania to Mt. Killimanjaro which was a 6 hr bus ride.
We stayed 2 nights in Arusha the 3rd largest city in Tanzania for 2 days as we got our supplies for the climb. Then a 3 hr trip to the start of the climb up Killimanjaro. The Tanzanian gov’t requires every body climbing the mtn to have a Tanzanian guide and porters plus paying $500 USD.We had arrange the climb at the last min. so things were a little confusing. We had paid our fees a head of time. But a few days before we arrived a bunch of Kenyans went to Tanzania and tried to rob a bank and were killed. So the Tanzanian gov’t said something like no Kenyans could make bank transactions, etc. So we get to the gate of the park and the Kenyan guys who set up the trip couldn’t used their ATM card to move the $2000 for the 4 of us to Tanzania to pay for the climb. So the 4 of us had to go to the ATM to withdraw the money again to pay the fees (later of that subject). After 4 hrs of African time we got started on our climb. The climb to the Summit is thru 5 ecological zone types, Rain Forest, Moorland, Deserty, Mountainest and Iceland. There are 3 huts to stay in Mandara, Horombo and Kibo. We stayed at the Horombo Hut for 2 nites to acclimatize our selves. There were a lot of climbers from all over the world. Plus each group of about 4 people had a bout 8 porters and 2 guides. We only had to carry our personal stuff and water, poles etc. The porters cooked our food which was good so we had it pretty good that way. This hut was up about 13000 ft so most of us were kind of winded as it was starting to get hard to do anything for some people. Heck there was this 70 year old Japanese guy who could snore up a storm. He looked like he’d pass out climbing stairs let a lone a mtn. I figure this was like the Base Camp of the climb. It was good to talk to the climbers both going up and finishing.
We then climbed to this Kibo Hut which was another 1000 m higher at about 4700 m or approximately 16500 ft. We got there around 5 pm and ate dinner around 6 pm and had a sleep till 10:30 PM. We got woken up for tea and cookies. Most of us slept with our climbing clothes on. Then at 11:30 PM we started our climb which some people couldn’t do as the atlitude sickness was getting to them. The climb was up about a 35 degree height but felt like 50 degree when we do it in the dark as it was thru gravel. It was suppose to be a 6 hr climb to this Gillman Ridge and then another 1 ½ hr climb to the summit. About a 1 ½ hr climb in I started to get a bad stomach ache. So I had diherra and threw up. So I told the group to keep going without me and I’d catch up maybe. So one of the porters stayed with me. I was so spaced out by the altitude that I had to rest every 10mins. Another group came up and I started following them up at the end. About an hr later while resting one of our guides brought 2 of the girls in our group down as they were dizzy and couldn’t function. They asked if I wanted to go down but not knowing any better I told I’ll continue going up. So I half crawled and climbed as I barfed. I was told I barfed 6 times after that. But like the fool I am I kept climbing and resting every 10 mins but I made sure that I wasn’t more that 10 ft behind the group as they were going really slow too. I felt drunk and when I stood up I kept sort of falling back and this porter kept me from falling back. His name was Mahmood so he was a Muslim and he told me he thought I was in a Muslim prayer postion when I was barfing. The whole 7 days I kept telling him he was a lousy Muslim as he was eating and drinking during the day as it was Ramandan. I don’t remember about 3 hrs of the climb but can remember it getting light which brought me back a little bit to reality. Then I remember getting to top of this rock ledge and it was Gillman Ridge about 5500 m (18500 ft). We all had a real adrenalin burst. We watched the view and took pictures congratulating ourselves. About 10 mins later we said OK lets go for the summit which seemed really close. Well it may have looked close but it was a long distance and not an easy climb. The only good thing was it was light. We were all so tired from the altitude that it was torture to walk let alone climb. When I made it to the Summit was so tired I could hardly remember anything.
Took some pictures and started back down meeting others climbing up and down.
I thought the climb down should be easy but it was just as tough going down. Being very tired , still with altitude sickness and protecting our knees it was a struggle. I had to stop and rest every 20 mins. The grade was steep, through big boulders so we had to watch our steep. Then we got in gravel some big and small. The small ones were slippery. I was walking down this path and suddenly I fell and did 4 somersaults with Mahood chasing me. I felt pretty good when I stopped (it was painful later). So we slowed down and took 3 hrs to get back to the Kibo Hut where my group was waiting. They were worried about what happened to me and then they saw a helicopter hovering over the mtn because I was about 1 ½ hrs behind most of the Summitters. I had a 30 min rest at the Kibo Hut and then we headed to the Horombo Hut to stay the night. This was a 10 Km hike down this trail so we could make it by night fall. I got there about 4 PM. This was about 18 hrs after getting up to start the climb to the summit. Dang I was beat but feeling better. Had a meal and then sacked out about 630PM. Everyone I talked to said it was the hardest thing they ever did, even the 70 year old Japanese. So I didn’t feel so bad. A lot of people didn’t make it because of altitude sickness like headaches, dizzyiness etc. Heck 3 young porters died a week before we went. They were carrying too much, no experience and it was raining.
After a 10 hrs sleep We walked to the parking lot which was a 7 hrs walk but was tiring on our knees and toes. It was a real experience which all I have to say is Bin Dare, Dun Dtat and don’t want to do it again!
You may have heard the Swahilli saying “Hakuna Matatta” which means “No Problem” well I must have heard it a 100 times but still don’t believe it. But I believe the word Jumbo meaning Hello in Swahilli.
A sad note was one our guide’s wife died while we were on the 6 day trip so he had to head down after 2 days. I felt like a real dirt bag when we got down as I didn’t change my clothes for 6 days. The food was African and good, the people we met were great. The average age of the climbers was around 45. I ‘d say about 50% make the climb. The others could climb it as they’re physically fit but get altitude sickness. I’d say it’s ½ physical and ½ mental.
When we got down to the parking lot. We weren’t able to leave the park as we owed another 650 USD because we stayed 6 days not 5 as the permit said. The company still couldn’t get their money from Kenya. Their communications skills were lousy and since we were beat and wanted to get a shower one of the guys took out the money to pay it.
We then had a big meal with beer with the guide and porters. We had to take a 3 hr bus ride back to Arusha for our hotel and a shower and clean clothes. Then after a rest we went to this Club (Disco) at 1130 PM. It was very dark in there and mostly Africans. They suggest non Africans shouldn’t go out after dark without an African present.
The beer was only $1.20 so of course we had to have a few. That African music is really great to listen and dance too (after a few beers and little sleep).
All in all it was a great trip and experience but I think I’d pass on doing that climb again. Also I don’t think I’ll ever be that high again with out oxygen or motor power.
We had a 7 hrs bus ride to Nairobi on Mon and almost got run off the road by a big truck as our driver was driving on both the left (correct side in E. Africa) and right side to avoid the pot holes. Unfortunately the truck driver lost control and hit the ditch and was driving to a fence when we last saw them. Probably a bit pissed I’d think We’re back in Nairobi at Mamma Ruth’s home resting, washing our clothes and waiting to go to Kanyawegi (village ) tomorrow which will be a 10 hr bus ride on a supposedly bumpy, road.
So I’ll try to update this blog when I get to electricity and an internet connection. Also may update some postings after completing them as sometimes the power goes off or the computer connection is the pits!! What I’m doing now is writing my blog in word on a memory card and then cut and pasting it to my blog. Sorry if the blog isn’t proof read! Attaching pics will be coming soom to Enhallah (god willing)!
So hope to see u soon! Oh by the way we’re still waiting for our money as the company was to meet us at 11 AM and it’s 4 PM. African time!!!!!

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